Western equitation (sometimes called western horsemanship, stock seat equitation, or, in some classes, reining seat equitation) competitions are judged at the walk, jog, and lope in both directions. Riders must sit to the jog and never post.

In a Western equitation class a rider may be asked to perform a test or pattern, used to judge the rider’s position and control of the horse. Tests may be as simple as jogging in a circle or backing up, or as complex as a full reining pattern, and may include elements such as transitions from halt to lope or lope to halt, sliding stops, a figure-8 at the lope with simple or flying change of lead, serpentines at the lope with flying changes, the rein back, a 360 degree or greater spin or pivot, and the rollback.

Riders must use a western saddle and a curb bit, and may only use one hand to hold the reins while riding. Two hands are allowed if the horse is ridden in a snaffle bit or hackamore, which are only permitted for use on “junior” horses, defined differently by various breed associations, but usually referring to horses four or five years of age and younger. Horses are not allowed to wear a noseband or cavesson, nor any type of protective boot or bandage, except during some tests that require a reining pattern.

Riders are allowed two different styles of reins: 1) split reins, which are not attached to one another, and thus the rider is allowed to place one finger between the reins to aid in making adjustments; and 2) “romal reins,” which are joined together and have a romal (a type of long quirt) on the end, which the rider holds in their non-reining hand, with at least 16 inches of slack between the two, and the rider is not allowed to place a finger between the reins.

The correct position for this discipline, as in all forms of riding, is a balanced seat. This is seen when a bystander can run an imaginary straight line that passes through the rider’s ear, shoulder, hip, and heel. This means the rider’s feet and legs must hang directly in balance so that the heel hits this line, with heels down. The rider should also be sitting as straight as possible, but with their hips under their body, sitting firmly on their seat bones, not sitting on one’s crotch with an arched back. The rider should have their weight sunk into their seat and distributed through their legs. The rider’s shoulders should be rolled back and their chin up to show that they are looking forward.

The western style is seen in a long stirrup length, often longer than even that used by dressage riders, an upright posture (equitation riders are never to lean forward beyond a very slight inclination), and the distinctive one-handed hold on the reins. The reining hand should be bent at the elbow, held close to the rider’s side, and centered over the horse’s neck, usually within an inch of the saddle horn. Due to the presence of the saddle horn, a true straight line between rider’s hand and horse’s mouth is usually not possible. Common faults of western riders include slouching, hands that are too high or too low, and poor position, particularly a tendency to sit on the horse as if they were sitting in a chair, with their feet stuck too far forward. While this “feet on the dashboard” style is used by rodeo riders to stay on a bucking horse, it is in practice an ineffective way to ride.

Mirror KB Equine Article Series

Western Training

Setting up a Practice Trail Course

By Kim and Kari Baker

Are you or your horse becoming bored with repeated workouts, riding around and around, in an arena? If so, consider setting up a western trail class practice course.

Whether or not you ever plan to show your horse in a western trail class, you’ll find that training for such a class will improve your horse’s agility and his confidence for many other events. Even if you absolutely do not intend to inter a show arena, but would prefer to take to the woods riding down trails au-natural, training your horse to maneuver through and over various western trail class obstacles will in fact teach your horse to calmly negotiate many, if not most, natural obstacles found out on the trail. As a bonus you’ll discover that your own horsemanship skills will sharpen, which in turn will fine-tune your horse’s response to cues.

“We like to start all of our young horses on trail class obstacles as soon as they are riding quietly in the arena. It teaches them to steer, and keeps them from becoming bored by riding only on the rail,” say top Appaloosa World championship trail class competitors, Tom and Phyllis Kirby of Chuluota, Florida.

Despite the fact that most all horses are capable of learning to maneuver over and through trail class obstacles, you’ll find that a horse with a naturally calm disposition, one that doesn’t easily panic under pressure, to be a more suitable western trail class mount. Conformation and body types contributing to agility and balance also play a part in how successful your horse will perform in competition, but let’s assume that you are satisfied with your horse and that you are ready to put together a practice trail course.

Trail Class Obstacles

A western trail course is simply a series of challenging obstacles that a horse and rider must carefully negotiate through, around, or over. Though artificially constructed, these obstacles represent what you might come across while out on the trail. So what are the obstacles?

If you plan to show within a specific breed association, the best place to begin is to read the show rulebook of your particular breed so that you’ll know exactly what type of obstacles to expect. Each breed association rulebook will normally provide a list of both mandatory and optional trail class obstacles. From this list the show committee will typically select six to ten obstacles.

Generally speaking, most shows will require you to traverse a bridge, ride at a designated gait over at least four poles, open and pass through a gate, perform a side pass, and complete a back-through. Other often-used obstacles include, a box, a serpentine, a water hazard, removing an item from a mailbox, putting on and taking off a slicker, ground tie, carry an object from one point in the arena to another, dismount and lead your horse through an obstacle, or clear a small jump.

Setting it up

To put together your practice trail course you’ll need to gather together a few items. Scrounge around the barn or stable, as you’re apt to find much of what you’ll need within the close proximity of your horse. Besides the barn, the next best place to look is at home, the lumber store, or perhaps a local garden nursery.

Building Bridges

To start off, you’ll need something that will represent a bridge. This might be as simple as a sheet of three-quarter inch outdoor quality plywood, or as fancy as a raised plank bridge with rails constructed out of two by six inch boards. However, as nice as a raised bridge might be, it’s usually best to start your horse off with a plywood bridge laid flat on the ground, graduating to a more complex bridge as your horse progresses.

Actually, you’ll find that you have two bridges within a single sheet of plywood. Just give it a flashy coat of white, blue, or even hot pink paint; maybe even with stripes, on one side, leaving the opposite side natural. Then flip it over ever so often. Such a basic change as this may not seem like a big deal to you. But to your horse, it just might seem as though you’re asking him to walk off the edge of the earth.

Versatile Poles

Next you’ll need to amass a number of poles. To start off, twelve poles will be sufficient, though you may want to add more as you and your horse progress in training.

When putting together your practice course, you’ll find that the pole is probably the most versatile trail element of all, and will be utilized in approximately 40 percent of your total trail course. The back-through, step-overs, the box and the side pass obstacles are all, by and large, assembled out of poles.

“Poles may also be added to existing obstacles like the bridge or gate, to boost their difficulty. “But there are specific rules about how high they can be elevated, and if elevated poles are used some obstacles then must be widened to make them negotiable,” explains Tom. “Elevated poles must also be secured in some way so that they do not rock or roll if touched.”

Gates

The last major item is the gate. If your arena gate is easy enough for you to handle from the back of your horse, by all means feel free to use it as part of your practice course. However, be sure that it’s safe to handle from the back of your horse. Should your horse become confused, and bump into the gate, there should be no sharp edges that could cause injury to either of you.

Even if your arena gate is suitable, setting up a basic rope gate might be beneficial should you run into such a gate at a show. The rope gate is constructed out of two uprights or jump standards. Space the uprights six to eight feet apart, and then fasten a length of rope to one of the uprights. Tie a loop in the other end of the rope so that it will easily drop over the top of the second upright. A wooden dowel or peg set into the upright approximately six inches from the top and sticking out a couple of inches, will prevent the rope from sliding too far down the post.

To make it a bit more difficult, “You may want to add some foliage at the gate. Of course your horse is going to try to get the foliage,” says Tom. “You’ll also need to practice both right and left hand push gates, and even an occasional back through.”

Optional Obstacles

Though not a vital item, three or more cones or markers are useful to have on hand. You’ll use them for serpentines as well as different variations of back-throughs. You don’t have cones? With a little ingenuity you might fashion markers out of many items you already have at home. For instance, medium sized plastic plant containers will work fine. Just stabilize them with dirt so they won’t blow away in the first big wind. You might even plant flowers in the pots for a little added class. Old paint cans or small paint buckets would also work well in place of cones. Use the last of your paint to give them a bright new look.

You’ll need additional things for your optional obstacles, so its time to bring out the true scavenger in you! Most items you need are easily found close at hand so again, rummage through your house and barn first. Then expand your search. What you can’t find at home or at the barn you’ll find at the local tack store, or possibly even at your next-door neighbor’s yard sale.

Be sure to include common items such as, a mailbox, water box, slicker, saddlebags, a tarp, or a lariat in your search. While its always nice to use the real thing, you may want to use substitutes for those you don’t have. For example, a simple box may take the place of a mailbox, a cotton longe line for a lariat, and a piece of heavy plastic will pass for a slicker.

Don’t forget to include effects that produce horse-spooking noises. You never know when you might be required to blow on a whistle, or be faced with the challenge of picking up a trash bag of noisy Aluminum cans. Be inventive and have fun with it. The more things you introduce to your horse, the better prepared he’ll be, either out on the trails or performing in the arena trail class.

Putting it all together

Now that you have your obstacles, how do you go about putting it all together? According to Tom and Phyllis Kirby, it actually doesn’t matter how you set it up at home since you will not necessarily work your horse through your training trail course over and over from start to finish, or work the same pattern twice.

“For ideas, we sometimes save trail class patterns from shows,” says Tom. “I think Phyllis has a book of them from the Appaloosa World and National shows for the last five years. However these patterns are generally three times longer than what you’d find at your local horse show, and most home arenas wouldn’t hold them. We just use parts of these courses to practice on.”

Dare to Challenge

In the beginning, practice difficult maneuvers such as backing, side passing, and turn on forehand or haunches well away from the trail obstacles. These exercises are un-natural to the horse, and are complicated enough without the interference of added stumbling blocks.

“To start a new or young horse on trail obstacles, begin with the simple ones first. Maybe just a walking over a pole,” says Phyllis.

Realize that it will take some time for your horse to understand that your leg pressure at the girth conveys a message to move side ways while leg pressure behind the girth means that he’s to just move his hindquarters, or possibly hold his hindquarters still while the reins tell him to move his front feet. If you find this all confusing just consider what your horse is up against. Nevertheless, once you and your horse are performing these maneuvers easily it’s time to up the ante.

Set up a few basic trail obstacles, but keep it simple. In other words, start with a single pole to side pass over, slowly working up to more complex patterns such as the “T” or “W”. Demanding too much of your horse too early on will only serve to discourage him.

“The worst thing to do is scare your horse. If your horse is uncomfortable with an obstacle, go back to something else until they are bored stiff with it. Then try the new one again. For an example, walk through the water box dry many times before you try walking through it with water in it,” explains Phyllis.

Each time your horse is able to handle the task at hand, change the obstacles so that there’s a reasonable amount of challenge in it. However, be sure to fairly evaluate the degree of difficulty. A slight challenge to you may in fact be an overly frustrating task to your horse.

Keep it interesting and avert anticipation, by altering the obstacles as well as the pattern. You might even practice your trail course from either end. Begin a practice session with the gate one day, then the next time you might finish with the gate.

“We change our practice pattern often,” says Phyllis. “Even if we don’t move the obstacles every time we practice, we never practice it in the same order. Horses learn by repetition and we don’t want them to learn a pattern. We only want them to learn how to think their way through an obstacle.”

“Repeating a pattern over and over will allow your horse to anticipate. This will get you into trouble when your horse begins to think he knows the pattern better than you,” adds Tom.

While practicing at home it’s always a good idea to stop your horse at any point when working an obstacle. A hesitation of a few moments before signaling him to continue will endow him with the capacity to be patient.

“Some horses are anxious to please while others just want to get it all over with. In either case, they will start to rush and that usually results in ticks and knocks,” says Tom.

Training your horse for western trail class is not only challenging it can be very rewarding. As you and your horse progress, you’ll be amazed at how truly maneuverable your horse actually is. You may also find that it has even enriched your relationship with your horse.

Trail Obstacle Dimensions

Bridge – 36 inches wide and at least 6 feet long. Must be sturdy and safe.

Rider Overs – A minimum of four wood rails or poles placed in a straight line, a zigzag, or circle. May be raised at either or both ends. Standard measurement between poles will depend on speed of gait and elevation. Walk overs (15 to 24 inches), Trot overs (3 feet to 3 feet 6 inches), Lope overs (6 to 7 feet)

Gate – Must be safe for horse and rider to maneuver through. An opening of 6 to 8 feet is adequate.

Back-through Obstacle – Minimum distance between poles or markers should be no less than 28 inches (30 to 36 inches is standard.) A back-through constructed of raised poles, must be no less that 30 inches apart with an elevation of no more than 24 inches high.

Box – Set of four poles placed so that they form a square. Poles must be equal in length, and no shorter than 5 feet long or longer than 6 feet.

Side pass – may be performed over or between any object that will not endanger the horse or rider. The side pass may also be laid out in various patterns from a simple straight line to the more challenging “L”, “W”, or “T”.

Water Box – Generally painted royal blue, water boxes should be 30 inches wide and 4 to 6 feet long.

How to braid a horse mane and tail
If you want to give your horse a beauty treatment consider braiding
the mane and tail. Here are a few tips and instructions to help you
along.
Sponsored Links

When braiding manes and tails of a horse it’s necessary to
take precautions to keep from getting kicked. You know your
horse better than anyone else so you know how the horse reacts
if someone stands behind him. It’s best to put the horse in
his stall and hang the tail over the gate. This will prevent
the horse from kicking but won’t insure that he’ll stand still
for the grooming. If the horse is well adapted to normal
grooming this might be the time to do the braiding.
Some people sit atop the horse while braiding the mane whereas
some simply stand on a stool or ladder. To get the braid
straight the horse must keep his head straight forward if
you’re sitting on him or turned if you’re using a stool.
Putting on the horse’s feed bag is sometimes helpful during
the braiding time.

Braiding a horse’s mane is a lot like braiding a person’s hair
except that it’s much thicker. After the horse mane and tale
have been shampooed use conditioner to make it more
manageable. Most people find it easiest to braid the mane and
tail while they are still wet. Brush the mane out well and
start by taking a section of the mane, near the top of the
horse’s head, and separating it into three equal segments.
Hold one section in the right hand with the last two fingers,
one section with the last two fingers on the left hand and the
middle section with the thumb and first two fingers of one
hand or the other. Braid once by putting the hair from the
right hand into the center and then the hair from the left
hand into the center. Pull tightly but not so tight that it’s
uncomfortable for the horse. Now pick up a strand that’s still
hanging and add it to the strand in the right hand. Pick up a
piece that’s hanging and add it to the middle section of the
braid. Then pick up a section of hanging hair and add it to
the left part of the braid. Braid one more complete turn by
placing the right section in the center and then the left
portion in the center. Continue this pattern braiding once,
picking up three more sections to add to the previous
sections, then braid once again. After the braiding is
finished tie with ribbon, rubber band or barrette. You can use
hair spray to keep the hair in place but be careful not to
spray towards the horse’s face.
The tail is braided slightly different than the mane. Section
the tail hair into three long, equal sections. Begin braiding
with the normal platting technique of placing the right side
into the center and then the left side into the center.
Continue this pattern all the way down and tie off with ribbon
or band.
You can further decorate the braids by adding bobby pins with
sparkly flowers, decorative barrettes, silk flowers and other
hair adornments.

Written by Emma Salkill – © 2002 Pagewise
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Rider number:______________________

Lead through gate 10

Lead over small jump 10

Lead over bridge 10

Lead over tarp 10

Lead through narrow opening 10

Trot 10 Stop and back up 10

Move over 10

Pick up foot 10
Bonus: Ground tie Points = ½ number of seconds

Here􀂶s how to teach your horse the six basic maneuvers that allow you to compete in
showmanship at halter—and that put a fingertip-finesse handle on an􀁜 horse.
Showmanship at halter, one of the most popular events at all levels of Western showing, tests a
handler􀂶s ability to fit and show a horse in halter competition. But no matter how skilled the exhibitor,
he or she can􀂶t do well in the class without a horse trained to perform it required maneuvers. If you􀂶re
an aspiring competitor wondering just how that􀂶s done, you􀂶ve come to the right place, as it􀂶s what
this article is all about.
Regardless of whether your care about showing, though, basic showmanship training offers benefits
outside the show ring that every horse owner can appreciate. It improves a horse􀂶s ground manners
and increases his respect level for you. It also fine-tunes your ability to control your horse􀂶s position
and pace, a skill useful in real-life situations such as backing out of a trailer, turning in tight quarters,
even moving a hoof off the hose in the wash
rack. At its most developed, showmanship
training gives you a level of body control
from the ground that can be operated with
fingertip finesse.
Who wouldn􀂶t want that degree of handle
on a horse? It􀂶s like leading a dance
partner instead of lugging a 1,000-pound animal at the end of the rope.
The Foundation
At its core, showmanship consists of six basic maneuvers that are combined in various orders and
degrees of difficulty to form a pattern. These basics are leading at a walk, leading at a jog/trot,
stopping, backing, setting up for inspection, and pivoting. They form the foundation of showmanship
training.

1. Maneuvers are taught with pressure on the
lead chain and pressure from your body
position. Immediately reward a correct
response with a release of all pressure and a
brief pause before you ask for another move
or different maneuver.
2. All exaggerated body position and verbal
cues shown in photos are for training
purposes only. Such excessive cues are
faults in a judged showmanship class. As
your horse progresses in his training, you􀂶ll
gradually decrease and refine these cues
until they are extremely subtle or nonexistent.
3. At the beginner training level, progress
comes in baby steps. A close approximation to the desired result is considered a correct
response. Reward accordingly.
4. When your horse reliably responds with a beginner-level effort, request improvement by
maintaining or increasing pressure as needed, until your horse responds with a result that􀂶s
better than his initial effort. Continue to use the baby-step training method to build toward a
solid foundation.
Walking The Walk
Goal: Your horse should lead calmly and willingly, at a pace that matches yours, and with his head
and neck in alignment with his body (straight on a straight line).
S􀁗a􀁕􀁗ing poin􀁗: Position your horse so his off-side (his right) is next to a rail, wall, or fence line (see
upper-right photo on page 66). This ensures that your horse develops the habit of traveling in proper
alignment. Tip: As your horse progresses, gradually wean him away from the rail so he learns to
maintain proper alignment on his own.
Position yourself at a point between your horse􀂶s throatlatch and the middle of his neck, facing
forward. Tip: You exact position will depend on your size, your horse􀂶s size, and the length of your
arms.
T􀁕aining 􀁖􀁗ep􀁖: Keep your hands and arms firm and still as you step off into a brisk walk. Tip:
Accentuate your body-language cues for forward motion by slightly inclining your shoulders forward
and stepping first with you right foot. This creates a visual cue your horse perceives slightly before
the physical cue of chain pressure.
Showmanship training teaches your horse to be as responsive and light on his feet as a dance
partner. And that􀂶s useful outside the show arena as well as in! Use our step-by-step instructions for
getting started.
T􀁕o􀁗 Take-Off
Goal: your horse should step smartly into a jog/trot at precisely the same moment you start your
run, without changing his basic body alignment.
S􀁗a􀁕􀁗ing poin􀁗: Remain on the rail and in the same position as described in the walk training
section. Start forward at a walk.
T􀁕aining 􀁖􀁗ep􀁖: Keep your elbows firmly at your sides, to anchor your lead hand and arms. Tilt your
upper body forward as you simultaneously take a huge step forward with your right leg.
Your horse is likely to respond with either of the reactions previously described, although at the
faster pace; you can expect the reaction to be more dramatic. Remain calm and continue at a run
with your elbows anchored and lead hand steady. The second you horse corrects his pace and
position to match yours, he􀂶ll earn his first reward—release of chain pressure. After a few successful
strides together at the jog/trot, reward him with a brief, calm walk, then try again. If your horse is
extra-reluctant to step into the jog/trot, add a verbal cue such as a “smooch” or “cluck” just before
you execute your initial cues.
Whoa Mean􀁖 Whoa
Goal: Your horse should stop in a soft, balanced manner, with his head, neck, and body in proper
alignment.
S􀁗a􀁕􀁗ing poin􀁗: Position your horse on the rail and start walking. Tip: When your horse reliably
“whoas” at the walk, progress to stopping at a jog/trot.

T􀁕aining 􀁖􀁗ep􀁖: At the walk, say “whoa” in a soft voice and then immediately stop and stand still
(saying whoa as a “pre-cue” before you stop gives your horse􀂶s brain time to start processing the
stop command). Your horse is likely to drift past you and then stop when the lead chain tightens
against his chin. Tip: Don􀂶t pull back on the lead chain when teaching the stop; let your horse
discover that his incorrect response, not your hand, initiates the correction.
You􀂶ll know your horse didn􀂶t stop correctly if your position, in relation to his body, has changed—for
example, when you stop, you􀂶re standing by his shoulder, instead of at a midpoint between his
throatlatch and mid-neck.
If your horse continues to respond lazily to your stop commands, try this correction: Say “whoa” and
stop as described above. Then, instead of standing still, immediately start walking backward. At the
same time, pull back and down (don􀂶t jerk) on your lead chain and repeat the verbal cue “whoa” with
every step you take. Your horse most likely will respond by pushing his head up and resisting
moving backward with you. Keep your correction-cue pressure on until your horse lowers his head
and takes at least one step backward with you.
When he does, immediately release the chain pressure, then walk forward a few steps and repeat
your stop command. You might need to apply this correction a few times while your horse learns to
coordinate his body to stop in time with yours. This correction can be used throughout the
progression of your showmanship training to sharpen and fine-tune your horse􀂶s “whoa” response.
Tip: A few horses tend to stop too rapidly (before you do) when you ask for a stop. You􀂶ll know you
have one of these fellows if you find yourself positioned forward at the throatlatch when you stop.
Eliminating your verbal pre-cue should fix this problem for you.

􀈱

by: Edited Press Release
January 01 2012, Article # 19369

Research commissioned by the British Horse Society (BHS) has proved that regular participation in horse riding is good for human health.

The research, carried out by the University of Brighton in partnership with Plumpton College in East Sussex, U.K., looked into the health and well-being benefits of horse-based sport and leisure. The findings indicated that horse riding and activities associated with horse riding (such as mucking out stalls) expend sufficient energy to be classed as moderate intensity exercise–the level of activity recommended by the British Government/National Health Service that when achieved for 150 minutes per week will help to keep a person healthy.

The revised edition of Olympic Equestrian highlights and chronicles the most celebrated equestrian athletes in the sport where men and women compete on a level playing field.

Other key findings include:

• Evidence shows that regular periods of trot work in a riding session may enhance the energy expended and the associated health benefits;
• Horse riding is especially well-placed to encourage physical activity among women of all ages. Evidence indicates that the vast majority of riders are female, and more than a third (37%) of riders who took part in the survey were above 45 years of age;
• The study found that horse riding stimulates mainly positive psychological feelings; and
• Horse riders are strongly motivated to take part in riding by the sense of well-being they gain from interacting with horses. This important positive psychological interaction with an animal occurs in a very few sports.

Mark Weston, BHS director of access, safety, and welfare, said, “While there was anecdotal evidence available on the physical and psychological well-being and health benefits of horse-based sport and leisure, there was a lack of empirical evidence to support, or challenge, these claims. The results of the survey will provide this empirical evidence.”

The full report is available as a PDF download on the BHS website.

by: Karen Briggs
May 01 1999, Article # 314

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Q: I’ve been told I should feed beet pulp to help put weight on my skinny Thoroughbred. But I’m worried about the stories I’ve heard about beet pulp expanding in the horse’s stomach and causing colic — or worse! Is beet pulp a good addition to my horse’s diet, and if so, how can I feed it safely?
A: Beet pulp is the fibrous material left over after the sugar is extracted from sugar beets. It’s an excellent source of digestible fiber, with a relatively low crude protein content (averaging 8 to 10%), comparable to good-quality grass hay. Its digestible energy is somewhere between that of hay and grain. In terms of other nutrients, it’s not a stand-out–it has a relatively high calcium content and very little phosphorus, is low in B vitamins, and has virtually no beta-carotene (the precursor of vitamin A) or vitamin D. Its chief value is as a soft, easily digestible supplement to your horse’s roughage (fiber) intake, and as such it’s a useful addition to the diet of many types of horses.

Consider feeding beet pulp if your horse is a “hard keeper” (it’s very good for encouraging weight gain), if he has dental problems that make chewing hay difficult, if the quality of your hay is poor, or if you have a geriatric horse who has trouble chewing or digesting other types of forage. It can be fed in addition to, or instead of, hay. Beet pulp’s excellent digestibility also makes it a great choice for a convalescing horse–one recovering from illness or surgery, for example. It even can be fed warm in the winter months, just like a bran mash (and nutritionally, it’s a better choice than bran). Most horses find it quite palatable, although occasionally you’ll come across one who considers it an acquired taste.

In its original format, beet pulp is quite soft and prone to mold, so it must be dried for storage. You can buy dehydrated beet pulp in either a shredded or a pelleted format; either way, it’s grayish-brown in color and has a slight but distinctive odor you’ll come to recognize. Some companies add a touch of dried molasses to improve its palatability and energy content. Contrary to popular opinion, you don’t have to soak beet pulp in water to feed it safely to horses–studies in which horses were fed dehydrated beet pulp, up to a level of 45% of their total diet, noted no ill effects whatsoever. Not only did the horses not “explode” (thus laying that myth to rest!), but they also suffered no signs of colic or choke, nor did the water content in their manure change. But most people prefer to soak beet pulp; it’s more palatable that way, and less likely to cause choke.

To soak beet pulp, place the shreds or pellets in a bucket and add twice as much water as pellets. You can use cool or warm water; some people feel it soaks a little more quickly using warm, but be careful not to use water so hot that you cook the beet pulp, because that will destroy most of the nutrients it contains. Let the bucket sit for at least a couple of hours before feeding; when ready, the beet pulp should have soaked up all of the water, increased in volume to fill the bucket, and be light and fluffy in consistency. (If you use beet pulp pellets, it’s easy to tell whether it has been soaked sufficiently, because there will be nothing left that resembles a pellet.) It’s not necessary to soak it overnight. If you fextra water, don’t worry; you can always drain it off before you feed, or you can feed the beet pulp on the “sloppy” side.

Learn more about the importance of nutrition, vaccinations, and deworming programs designed to keep your horse healthy in Understanding Equine Preventive Medicine.

Although most horses will eat beet pulp on its own, its appeal will be improved if you stir it into your horse’s regular grain ration. As with any new addition to the diet, start with only a small quantity and gradually increase the amount you’re feeding over a period of a week or so. Because beet pulp is really a fiber supplement, not a grain, you can safely feed as much as you like; if weight gain is the objective, you may find yourself going through a gallon or more a day. Fortunately, beet pulp is a relatively inexpensive feed, so you don’t have to be sparing with it.

It’s best to make up beet pulp in small batches–just enough to feed in a single day. In the hot summer months, especially, soaked beet pulp left to sit tends to ferment, significantly changing its odor and flavor. If this happens, it’s best to throw it out and make a fresh batch. Generally soaked beet pulp will keep for about 24 hours; in the winter, you may be able to stretch that to 48 hours or so.

I use beet pulp consistently in my own feeding program, both for my “bottomless pit” Thoroughbred and for my 28-year-old pony. It’s an inexpensive, versatile feed with a number of benefits which easily outweigh the minor inconvenience of preparing it.

Horses and the Law

Will of the People

Public opinion Polls are only as good as the pollsters and the questions they ask. It’s easy to skew the results, either intentionally or not, and poll results always should be viewed with some suspicion.

Take Congress, which like Rodney Daingerfield gets no respect these days.

The public’s approval of our Senators and Representatives is hovering around 10 per cent. Compared with some past polls, this makes the institution about as popular as a Communist takeover of the United States and less popular than Paris Hilton, BP during the Gulf oil spill, banks, and lawyers. Even the spin doctors can’t make those numbers look good.

National Public Radio recently suggested an explanation for the dismal poll results, speculating that the low ratings mean that Congress is ignoring the will of the people, and the people resent it. The NPR report did not specifically address horse slaughter, but it raises an important question: Does the legislative process aid or thwart the will of the people when it comes to slaughter? To answer that question, we need to ask another one: what do we, the people, actually want.

Pro and Con

A majority in the United States opposes horse slaughter, according to Louisiana Sen. Mary Landrieu, sponsor of S. 1176 (the American Horse Slaughter Prevention Act of 2011). Is this the will of the people?

My perception has been that there are three distinct groups: a small percentage of people who are actively opposing horse slaughter, a small group who are actively in favor, and an indifferent—and largely silent—majority. I put that theory to Nancy Perry, Senior Vice President of Government Relations for the American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals. Both Perry and the ASPCA are tireless advocates for animal welfare. She disagreed with my assessment:

The majority has not been silent on the issue of slaughter, Perry said. In fact, she explained, the ASPCA has been “inundated with calls from people from all over the country who are opposed to slaughter. There is a firestorm on the issue right now.”

PopVox.com, a web site that tracks public opinion on issues before Congress, attaches some numbers to the storm: 81 per cent in support of the House of Representatives version of the anti-slaughter bill, 77 per cent in favor of the Senate version.

Organizations on record at PopVox.com supporting the legislation include the Humane Society of the United States, the Animal Welfare Institute, the International Fund for Horses, the Equine Welfare Alliance, Inc., Habitat for Horses, Americans Against Horse Slaughter, Respect4Horses, Veterinarians for Equine Welfare, the Animal Law Coalition, Soulful Equine, and Another Chance for Horses. The list does not include the many grassroots groups that probably don’t have time to vote because they’re active on the front lines taking care of abused and neglected horses and raising money to educate horse owners.

On record opposing the legislation at PopVox.com is United Organizations for the Horse. The American Veterinary Medical Association and the American Association of Equine Practitioners also have taken stands against anti-slaughter proposals.

The American Horse Council does not have a position on the anti-slaughter legislation. A survey done by the Kentucky Horse Council of its members in 2009 found that just over half the people responding (51 per cent) agreed with this statement: “Any horse that is unwanted & unsellable may be slaughtered provided that it is done in a humane way.” A much smaller number (15 per cent) said that “only those horses that are aged, diseased, or unsound should be slaughtered.” One-fifth of the respondents (21 per cent) opposed slaughter for any reason.

Power of the Horse

None of these numbers are carved in stone, and it’s always difficult to know whether poll results represent the will of all the people or merely the will of those interested enough in an issue to voice an opinion. Either way, it’s time for Congress to take action—one way or the other—on horse slaughter.

Perry is “guardedly optimistic” about passage of the American Horse Slaughter Prevention Act during the current Congressional session.

“The support for the anti-slaughter legislation is fabulously bipartisan,” Perry said, and she’s right. The House bill was introduced by a Republican, Rep. Dan Burton; the Senate bill was introduced by a Democrat, Sen. Landrieu. Co-sponsors come from both sides of the aisles.

“The power of the horse is amazing,” Perry added.

On that, at least, everyone can agree.

Filed under: legislation • slaughter

Comments

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13 Dec 2011 12:38 PM

Hmmm. Makes me wonder just who they’re asking, to get a majority of opposed persons. I don’t personally know anyone who’s actually involved with horses who is opposed to horse slaughter. Those of us who are actively involved with horses see and understand the need for it.

Dee 13 Dec 2011 4:26 PM

One touchy subject, ain’t it? I am in favor of horse slaughter. But, yes, it does need to be handled in a humane way. Just as the slaughter plants had to re-learn how to treat a cow better, they will learn horse handling also.

8×10 13 Dec 2011 4:28 PM

I don’t personally know anyone involved with horses who is in favor of slaughter. I am a horse owner and have been for 21 years. One of my first 3 horses would have gone to slaughter if I had not offered the kill buyer a profit on him. I kept him and the others for the rest of their lives. The emaciated mare I bought that same night lived to be almost 34.

Elaine 13 Dec 2011 5:32 PM

Nope. I disagree with horse slaughter. If the stats are true, and the majority (Dept of Agriculture figures of 93%) are not emaciated, ill, etc., I support re-homing, along with prevention – the gelding clinic AAEP subsidy is a step in the right direction.

Judy 13 Dec 2011 5:52 PM

My emaciated mare was part of a starving herd and was one of the 2 worst looking animals. I also got another mare from that herd. There was a slaughterhouse in the state at that time. There was also a man locally who was found guilty of cruelty for starving horses twice while the slaughterhouse was open and a local horse auction frequented by a kill buyer within 20 miles of where he starved his horses. He was not forbidden from owning horses until he was convicted a third time. That time he locked some horses in stalls and nailed the doors shut and they were found dead. There are people breeding horses for slaughter who will have to stop if legislation passes. The USDA monthly report used to divide loose horses sold for slaughter by the pound and horses sold for riding by the head and maybe still does.

Elaine 13 Dec 2011 5:52 PM

Anyone who thinks that horses can be slaughtered humanely hasn’t watched the videos online. Those of us who have owned horses for 37 years understand that responsible ownership means paying for humane euthanasia at the end of a horse’s life. Horse slaughter serves no useful purpose other than to satisfy the palates of foreigners and provide a ready market for stolen horses.

Sheri 13 Dec 2011 6:37 PM

I SEER THE HORSE WORLD THROUGH A HORSEMANS EYES. THE HORSE WHO HAS NO QUALITY OF LIFE IS LEFT IN THE FIELD TO DIE. IS THIS A LIFE FOR ANYTHING. IN MY OPINION “NO”. I DON’T CARE WHAT KIND OF HORSE IT IS. SOMETIMES IT JUST HAS TO BE DONE.

Donna 13 Dec 2011 6:57 PM

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13 Dec 2011 8:30 PM

First, there is no way to humanely slaughter horses starting with the abuse they suffer at low end auctions, the suffering endured in cramped hauling conditions, the crowded feedlots (some of which do not offer enough food or water) and then the actual abuse at the hands of the killers.

Second, reopening slaughter facilities will only encourage horse thieves to steal more healthy, well trained horses who load easily. One of my horses was the victim of an attempted theft back in the ’80s. She broke away from the thief but was never of sound body or mind because of the abuse she suffered during the theft attempt.

Sandra 13 Dec 2011 10:46 PM

With due respect. Any person who would leave a horse to die is actually a criminal. Any horseman knows the place where one shot will end a horses misery in dire circumstances. Slaughter does not “need” to be done. And humane slaughter does not exist. At the very worst, a bullet and a shovel are all that are needed to give a horse that has reached the end of life final peace. But wait a minute, that is not what this is about is it? It is about money. Nevermind that horse gave you its life. I encourage those who are pro-slaughter to, for one thing, above all, eat horse. Bring horse sandwiches to work for lunch. Invite friends over and see who shows up when they see the menu. Even better, live in the feed lot, ride in the double decker to the slaughter house with no water. Take the head injuries. Lose one or both eyes. Fall and get trampled, break multiple legs but unfortunately stay alive. See how many horses are still able to walk upon arrival and how those who cannot are taken to the killing floor. Watch every single horse get the bolt (if they are lucky it hits home and they do die), get shackled by a hind leg, hoisted up and skinned (start of rendering). I invite them to inspect each horse hanging there by a leg closely to see if every single one is dead. Shouldn’t somebody do that before they got hoisted up? Those of us who have saved horses from slaughter know that none of this has to be. Stop the over breeding! Bless the people who adopted a deaf draft mare who had been fattened for slaughter.

Paula 13 Dec 2011 11:21 PM

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